Ritts Pickings

Stephanie,Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood 1989*

Herb Ritts created strong, iconic images that looked at the human form with graphic simplicity. And, as a new exhibition ( of 31 black and whites) proves, although he worked in fashion his pictures have stood the test of fads or frivolity. From sculptural, musclebound men – who can forget the famous Athena poster of a greased –up mechanic complete with tyres - to stars including Madonna, the first ‘Supermodels’ and Elizabeth Taylor - his work captured an era. But what exactly made Herb Ritts stand out and influence so many? Described as a photographers’ photographer, we asked celebrity snapper Jim Marks to explain how Ritts made his magical monochromes.

“Herb Ritts created the template for modern celebrity photography.
He clearly had real focus of vision: that is, one, simple, idea worked out beautifully.

If you look at his images there are really strong, defined shapes : a man’s twisted torso or the supermodels all grouped together.
They didn’t just happen to sit like that!
He would have placed every hand, foot and shoulder just so, and the result is a graceful, soft shape that resembles a rose.

As for his lighting: Ritts was groundbreaking in that most photographers shooting in daylight work in the morning or evening.
He shot in the midday sun, in the Californian desert, when the light is very hard.

But strong, bright light suits the subjects: it gives them depth through the dramatic shadows and high key shimmer.
This lighting, coupled with the classical shapes is what elevates his photographs to heroic status, and , ultimately, why they will always be works of art.”

Herb Ritts, until 11th September,  Hamiltons Gallery, 13 Carlos Place, London,  W1K  2EU, www.hamiltonsgallery.com

* Courtesy of Hamiltons Gallery, c Herb Ritts Foundation
Homepage image, Elizabeth Taylor, Malibu, 1991,  Courtesy of Hamiltons Gallery, c Herb Ritts Foundation

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