Roksanda gave us a stellar lesson in how to work the shoulder.There was embellishment, with jewels and mirrors smattering over a black blazer,exaggeration with elizabethan (lampshade sized) sleeves, subtle purple velvet trims, origami folds draping on one side, and fishtails extending from the shoulder and running down the arm. There was luxury, with velvet combining with lace, silver jacquard and beautiful gold jewelry that looked like interconnecting solidified gold ribbons.

P.S. The shiny pleat trouser was in appearance again(in black and magenta).

The dresses, swirly dyed arrangements of purple and plum sometimes teamed with a multicolored plumage. Femininity was taken down a notch with the addition of rusty coloured Dr martins and maroon tights. Other dresses payed homage to the city with which they work, with prints featuring the images of London and their much loved pearly kings, other just imitated their style using the white buttons to create words and patterns on black chiffon dresses. There was one trousers suit which was shiny and black with a punch of colour gleaming out from the cowl neck printed top. The length of the trouser short enough to expose the rebellious Dr Martin boot.

His inspiration( when rocks crack over time due to climate change) was obvious in the black( and one red)dresses which were slashed revealing a twinkly bright blue underneath.

My favourite piece was an almost neon pink, double layered dress that was held in the waist by a black belt which had been tied. This was teamed with a necklace which glistened like cut up pieces or cellophane wrapping, the sort that the greatest hampers are finished with, reflecting pink and blues from the surroundings. Another winner was a short asymmetric, orange, pale blue and black wrapped barbwire print dress ,which has a section pulled over the head , adding another dimension to an otherwise simple dress. 

The show which was titled ‘Jet Set Masala’ had a definite theme.The skirts suits looked like that of of a uniform, the hats were all graced with gold pins(as if it were an emblem).The more casual trouser ensembles also featured broaches taken from old fashioned pilots badges.The print in some cases was even made up of little characature planes. The colours were bold and varied and you could see obvious inspiration from 60’s combinations. It wasn’t my style overall, but I did love the v neck red and black striped jumper paired with the check diamond skirt which was teamed with tights that had a hint of glitter and an arm stacked of bangles(see picture). The kitsch tiger jumper is sure to be a hit with the young audience too!

Never a designer for wallflowers, but one for those who can carry strong looks and often a red lip. This collection continued her obvious affection for 80’S design but showed progression with some more matures wears. The choice of sexy colour combination(red and black) was introduced with a suit which glided the thigh, and nipped in at the waist but featured a comic strip like flash of bold red. 

The duo continued to prove their proficency in digital prints.Much of  the pallette emoted Sofia Coppolas Marie Antoinette with apricot and powder blue, other combinations looked like  abstract paintings cut up and put back together, in an orderly manner of course. Their wonderful prints were also used in conjunction with stripes and even modern vibrant tiger print.There were no daring necklines or particularly high hems but their choice of luxurious fabrics and prints, which must be some of the best in the industry, meant that this was a highly exciting show-helped by the light hearted string quartet playing the likes of Britney.

Special mention must go to the jewelry which was often bright gold, encasing jewels, on black velvet ribbons which despite their over the top nature had enough of an heirloom quality to stop them looking cheap.

Always one to pull in the crowds,Ms Westwood never faltering in delivering clothes that show off her talent for tailoring, her cheeky rebellion but her knowledge of what women want to wear. Her choice of models also backed up her manifesto with strong, sexy older women Jo Wood, the punked out it girl Alice Dellal and more curve/less waif model Daisy Lowe strutting their unique stuff!

With inspiration sought from the school uniforms( most likely from the naughty pupils)their were striped and tweed blazers with emblem badges as well as hats from other uniforms covers in materials not usually associated. She continued her tartan addiction with usual aplomb,contrasting checks and colour ways, the material clinging to appropriate body parts to give just the right amount of edgy sexy appeal. 

As well as the female detective ,pulled in waist coats and trenches,her collection displayed,  yet again,her ability to produce simple, flattering, dresses that drape to make the most of ones figure, the red example sure to fly of the shelves for its wearable allure.

There was a B horror movie feel to the styling of to the show, with the disheveled models uniformed with eerie paled out eyes, which was quite fitting for the title ‘burn in hell.’

Despite referring to the likes of ‘Nightmare on Elm street’ for me this was on of her most wearable collections to date. Stripping the looks of styling extras or considering them as separate pieces, the garments could be easily translated for every day use. The high waisted,pleated,wool mix trouser would make for perfect relaxed work wear , the tongue in cheek ‘Boo’ jumper a quirky accompaniment to the ripped jeans also found in the collection. The anarchic,ripped and tangled dresses, which, as with most of the looks, were finished with dreamcatchers and feathers, could be adorned comfortably by kooky beauties such as Pixie Geldof.

www.annsofieback.com

When asked if I could name any Swedish designers , apart from Ann Sofie back I was at a loss. Incidently she is the only Sweish designer showing under her name at London Fashion Week, and what a shame that is. This exhibition joyfully opened my eyes to some undiscovered/overlooked foreign talents. 

Sandra Bucklands designs immediatly reminded me of the work  of up and coming graduate Simone Shailes. In a short space of time the young Shailes has got her designs in one of our most successful stores( Topshop) and is repeatedly appluaded by our top fashion glossies, most prominantly Vogue. I feel frustrated for Buckland that she is yet to reach those dizzy heights in the UK. I was informed that the featured pieces are are made solely by her,this may explain why she is yet to become a well known name in our fashion capital. Only herself and her mother know how to create the scultpural knits making it impossible  to cater to demand. She only charges around £2,500 for these one off pieces too, no small amount I know,but when you consider the indiviual amount of hours put in that is a more than reasonable amount to pay!!

As soon as I saw Barfitts piece, the androgynous diva Grace Jones popped into my head. The late 1990’s apparel of the piece and its edgy, playful punk rock inspiration would be a perfect stage piece for the performer.

The husband and wife team of Fifth Avenue Shoe pieces feature scultpural voluminous shapes. Much like promising young brit designer Hannah Marshall their decisions to adopt black is wise. The simplicity of colour enhances without distracting from the marvellous construction.

As someone who is pursuing a greener way of life, looking to adapt my shopping habits I was pleased to discover the work of The Local Firm who used organic and recycled materials and believe that their brand to be a movement , a ‘concept that could exist anywhere.’

It was a welcome suprise to see jewellery on show alongside the mannequinned garments.Apparently the stylists went mad for the jewellery  dispalyed in the Dreamer and the Dream displays when the exhibition visited other cities, the press offices recieving numerous request fro sample loans.The collection features a plethora of wacky, off the wall pieces that stylists and ediotrs are always on the hunt for  to pull a look together or set their stories apart from other magazines.

Sissi Westerberg although unusual could imaging having a commercial following here. The silver necklace with its melting appearance a particular favourite.

I loved Da Da diamonds quirky pieces. Fantastical-drawn from fairytales combined with an eerie, uncanny feel. Clearly inspired by the 1920’s surrealist era these pieces with their velvet and metal combined would add edgy mystery to any shoot.

Saran enbergs work has a fine art quality. Apparently the featured pieces constrast greatly to her popular commercial collection, and would look quite at home at a cool east end  gallery. Using words that we use day to day in relationships her pieces had a sentimental quality. The recogniseable word selections allowed you to draw links to your own life and and feel appropriately nostalgic.

For those of you who see the word exhibition and run this is a compact but sleek show, it is a succint and varied show and I would go as far as saying a must see for fashion devotees. I personally love to fuel my passion by finding new talents from different parts of the World and in my pursuit of staying unique I revel in finding pieces that are yet to be adopted by the style pack on a mass scale.

A great stop on your lunch break or after work it delivers a great summary of eclectic swedish design talent and may give you a glimpse of stars of the future!!I hope it truly does deliver the designer a new identity( one that gifts them with big success in the Uk)

The exhibition runs till Sunday 17th May 2009.

Fashion and Textile museum

11am-6.00pm Wednesday to Sunday    £5 for adults, £3 students and concessions, under12s free

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